Puerto Viejo is an idyllic Costa Rican town where the rainforest meets the sea. Located on the southeast coast of the country, this little paradise is laid-back yet vibrant, pulsing with the heartbeat of Mother Nature.
From turquoise Caribbean beaches to rich Indigenous culture, from abundant wildlife to dancing Reggaeton in the streets, Puerto Viejo feels like a sacred slice of heaven. So far removed from the city hustle and bustle, it’s easy to disappear into this corner of the world and feel like nowhere else exists.
There are pros and cons to being this far removed from a city. Living in the jungle comes with its fair share of inconveniences. And bugs. But as long as you are prepared, Puerto Viejo is an incredible place to visit.
I stayed in Puerto Viejo for 6 weeks, and still to this day, it is one of the most magical places I have encountered. The town is on “island time,” and I found it to be well-suited for slow travel. I was able to work remotely, even with the occasional sloth-related power outage (more on that below).
Slowness is part of Puerto Viejo’s charm. The streets are full of tuk-tuks and bicycles. People are not rushing to get anywhere. It’s more likely for someone to take the long way to inhale the ocean breeze for longer, or pause their journey to catch up with an old friend.
Even if you only have a few days, it is worth fitting Puerto Viejo into your plans! It’s a magical place unlike any other. Those few days will be enough to awe you.
Step 1: Navigate to the Correct Puerto Viejo
Yep – there are two Puerto Viejos in Costa Rica. They are vastly different destinations, in opposite directions from San José, so the first, and arguably most important, part of your trip will be getting yourself to the correct one.
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca is the place we are talking about in this blog, the jungle-ocean-Caribbean paradise. This is not to be confused with Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí, which is a small, inland town north of San José with exclusively eco-tourism and outdoor adventure activities.
So how do you know you’re going to the correct one? You should be traveling southeast from San José. From Juan Santamaría International Airport, a drive to Puerto Viejo should take 4 hours (minimum).
It is possible to rent a car and drive to Puerto Viejo yourself. If you do, I highly recommend downloading Google Maps of the route ahead of time. That way, even if you run out of service, you will be able to access the directions you need.
Step 1: Find your destination on Google Maps. Scroll to the last of the blue buttons.
Step 2: Press “Download offline map” and wait for the download to complete.
Step 3: Expand the highlighted box to fit your entire route, or download section by section. (This is what I recommend for storage space.)
Step 4: Continue on as usual! You will be able to access these online maps regardless of your service.
How to Get Around Puerto Viejo
You’ve finally made it to Puerto Viejo – now what?
As mentioned above, it is very easy to rent a car from the airport in San José. However, car rentals can be expensive, and sometimes impractical. Puerto Viejo and the surrounding communities are very small, and not every accommodation will offer parking.
There are a few rental car agencies in Puerto Viejo. So if you find yourself wanting to drive to your own adventure, you can always arrange that while you are in town.
Getting anywhere within Puerto Viejo town can be done walking – from one end of town to the other is about 0.9 miles (1.4 kilometers).
There are plentiful options for bike rental in Puerto Viejo, and biking is an amazing option for getting around. There are towns, beaches, and natural wonders that are reachable by bike. Most rental shops will offer rates by the hour, day, or week.
I rented a bike from Puerto Viejo Bike Rentals for a 24-hour period, which cost roughly $10 USD and included a helmet, bike chain, and lock.
It is also popular to use a tuk-tuk for transportation for farther distances. A tuk-tuk is an open-air, three-wheeled vehicle that serves as the local version of a taxi.
You can find tuk-tuks along the main road through Puerto Viejo (calle 256). The central tuk-tuk taxi stand is across from Old Harbour Supermercado. There will always be a few waiting there.
You hire a tuk-tuk the same way you would a taxi outside of an airport. Walk up to a driver sitting in their tuk-tuk and tell them where you want to go. Be prepared to pay in cash. I recommend asking for the price up front, just to avoid any surprises at the end.
Also be prepared to conduct business in Spanish. I find it helpful to have Spanish downloaded on my Google Translate app, so I can always get translation regardless of cell service.
Once you meet a nice tuk-tuk driver, ask if you can save their number for future rides. Many drivers operate through WhatsApp, so you can send them a message whenever you need a ride. If they are not personally available, they may be able to refer someone else.
This is especially helpful when you need a ride back to Puerto Viejo. You may not be able to find a tuk-tuk wherever you are, so it is very important to have a way of contacting one for a ride.
How to Find the Best Beach in Puerto Viejo
Since your time is limited in Puerto Viejo, it’s important to choose activities that suit you best. That includes beaches! There are so many options, each with unique scenery and ambiance. Read my guide to the best beaches in Puerto Viejo to get all the details.
First, consider what you want from the beach you go to. Maybe you want to sunbathe, or surf, or snorkel, or maybe you want to find the most remote option farthest from other people.
Here are my quick summaries of the top 5 beaches near to Puerto Viejo:
- Playa Negra: Most unique. Black sand. Lots of privacy. Great for sitting alone under a palm tree and reading.
- Chino Beach: Very calm water, amazing for swimming. Restaurants, cafes, and bars right on the beach. The closest beach to town center.
- Playa Cocles: Surfers, this is your crown jewel. It’s known as one of the best surf spots in the country. Which is also fun to spectate! Expect lots of sun exposure.
- Playa Chiquita: Most remote. Only accessible via walking trail through a neighborhood.
- Playa Punta Uva & Playa Punta Uva Arrecife: Best for snorkeling and other outdoor activities such as hiking and kayaking.
You can find much more information about each of these beaches in my Puerto Viejo Beaches blog!
Where to Eat in Puerto Viejo
The food in Puerto Viejo is so special, blending cultures and cuisines as a reflection of the town itself. It is amazing to walk a community this small and have the option to eat Indian, Thai, Irish, Jamaican, Japanese, and Italian food, all within blocks of each other.
I’ve included my favorite restaurants below. Check them out and see if they sound good to you!
Caribbean Food
To find the best local food, look for a soda. These are small mom-and-pop restaurants, typically open-air and sometimes literally out of the family’s kitchen.
I was recommended and personally loved Soda Riquísimo, which is in Puerto Viejo town center.
Sushi in Puerto Viejo
My favorite sushi in Puerto Viejo, hands down, was at Chile Rojo. This is a fusion Thai-Caribbean restaurant, which is a cuisine combo I had not seen anywhere else. I tried a sushi roll that had plantain as one of its ingredients!
Eating a food you are used to, but with a unique local twist, is one of the greatest treasures of traveling. So seeing a menu with section titled “Japanese Caribbean Fusion” was a real treat.
If you find yourself hungry at Playa Cocles, you have to get a roll at Sushi Wave by Cariblue, where you can eat on the beach. There is a large overhead cover, making it comfortable in the sun or in the rain (so I hear).
I was the only guest when I dined here, so I had a private spot on the beach to enjoy my meal and my book. This is what dreams are made of.
Irish Pub
What is a vacation without a trip to an Irish pub, eh? I loved the Green Jaguar Irish Pub, where I got cocktails (there was a 2 for 1 special when I went!) and the juiciest lamb burger. The owner was very friendly, and joyfully shared how proud they are to source most of their ingredients locally.
Puerto Viejo Cafés
Do you have an affinity for peaceful greenery, good coffee, and feeling like a fairy? Be sure to visit Café Rico, a cozy spot tucked away from the main road and busy restaurants. This cafe serves breakfast and lunch in a lush, jungle garden. And it is also part book store! You can peruse the bursting shelves for a nice read to enjoy with your coffee.
Things to Do Around Puerto Viejo
Puerto Viejo is more than just beaches and good food! (Although I won’t blame you if you spend your entire visit enjoying just those things.)
There are also many places nearby where you can connect with nature, support wildlife conservation, or learn about the Indigenous peoples of the area.
Jaguar Rescue Center: Wildlife Conservation in Costa Rica
Anyone who loves animals will enjoy a visit to the Jaguar Rescue Center. This is an animal rescue center which houses and cares for animals that are sick, injured, or orphaned. They have rehabilitation programs for animals that may one day be released back to the wild. Additionally, this is a permanent home for animals that will not be able to survive on their own.
Expect to see many types of animals, including sloths, monkeys, and tropical birds.
Cahuita National Park
Nestled in the jungle 10.5 miles (17 km) north of Puerto Viejo, is Cahuita National Park. This is a tropical oasis on the coast, with white sand beaches, abundant hiking and walking trails, and unbelievable wildlife. The park also extends 55,200 marine acres in order to protect the largest coral reef in Costa Rica.
You can get to Cahuita National Park from Puerto Viejo by car (no 4×4 required), public bus, tuk-tuk, or Uber.
Entrance to the park is free or by donation if you enter through the main gate. Through the Puerto Vargas entrance, which is closer to Puerto Viejo, entrance is $5 USD for foreigners and 1,000 colones for Costa Ricans.
Out of respect for this beautiful land you are visiting, please follow all the park’s rules. This includes:
- Use reef-safe sunscreen;
- Do not bringing snorkel gear or single-use plastic;
- Only swim and hike in the designated areas;
- Carry-in, Carry-out.
My favorite way to experience Cahuita National Park was by guided kayak tour with Iki Dreams. Iki Dreams is operated by Alex, a local who gives tours of his family’s organic farm. He is personable and kind, and so knowledgable about the land, farming, wildlife, and history of the area.
After a fascinating tour of the farm, we took a leisurely kayak through the rainforest until we reached the white sand beach. Along the way, Alex pointed out sloths, monkeys, toucans, and other jungle creatures. Back at the farm, we ate organic fruits, vegetables, and sauces straight from the land we just toured.
Cash and Currency
Costa Rica uses the colón (pronounced like cologne). I recommend you exchange some money into colónes.
Many of the bigger stores and restaurants in Puerto Viejo will take card, but not everywhere. And there are certain food options (fruit stands, beach vendors, empanada stands, etc.) that will be cash only. Tuk-tuks will only accept cash. If you go on any tours, it is best to tip with cash.
You can exchange money ahead of time through your bank, or there are several ATMs around Puerto Viejo.
Puerto Viejo Final Thoughts
Puerto Viejo is the type of place that will shift your perspective without even trying. Somewhere between the calm pace of life, the warm ocean waves, and the lush, ever-growing jungle, you will take a deep breath and feel totally and perfectly human.
It is a trek to get there, but I promise it is worth it. Put this Caribbean gem into your Costa Rica itinerary to experience the magic yourself.
