5 Caribbean beaches you don't want to miss.
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca sits on the southeast Caribbean coast of Costa Rica. Tiny and unassuming, this peaceful beach town offers more than you might expect by its size. From the wildlife (sloths and monkeys and toucans, oh my!) to the people, to the ocean around every corner, Puerto Viejo forces you to connect with nature and a slow pace of life.
Puerto Viejo, like much of Costa Rica, begs for slow travel. The type of travel that includes biking instead of driving, chatting instead of rushing, and allowing yourself time to be completely present. For me, this is best done with a good book on a warm beach.
As a tico described to me, “there is jungle, and then there is ocean. Welcome to Puerto Viejo.” And it’s true! It is astounding to see the rainforest growing all the way to the coast.
This environment has created a diverse set of beaches to choose from, even within a relatively small area.
Below, I outline the 5 best beaches in and around Puerto Viejo (in my humble opinion).
For reference, all of these photos are from when I visited Puerto Viejo in July and August, which is considered rainy season. You will see from the photos, the rain was not much of an issue.
Playa Negra
Named for its striking black sand, Playa Negra is a 6.2 mile (10 km) stretch of coastline just north of Puerto Viejo town. The black sand is made from volcanic material which makes it incredibly dark and slightly magnetic. Since it is located so close to white sand beaches, Playa Negra is much less popular, especially with tourists.
My unpopular opinion is that Playa Negra is the best beach in Puerto Viejo! There are many palm trees lining the beach, creating shade and a feeling of privacy. There are fewer people, meaning less noise beyond the birds and the waves. The shore is within a larger bay, making the waves relatively calm.
I get spooked by dark water, and the black sand makes the water very dark. So this was not my swimming beach. That said, the water was calm enough to wade into and cool down. Braver people than I enjoyed swimming here, regardless of the dark water.
I always felt grounded and calm at Playa Negra. Which may have been because I was sitting on a beautiful beach listening to the Caribbean ocean, but I also wonder if it had something to do with the volcanic material in the sand. Either way, this is the best beach in Costa Rica for sitting and experiencing the present moment.
Playa Negra is best for: sitting alone and reading/painting/meditating; disconnecting from crowds.
Playa el Chino (Chino Beach)
Immediately beyond Playa Negra and next to Puerto Viejo town center is Playa el Chino, or Chino Beach. This beach is smaller, with less room for walking. It can be tough to find free space on the weekends, since this beach is so close to town which makes it a very popular spot.
There are restaurants and cafes right on the shore. It’s a beautiful place to post up to do some reading, or work if you are a digital nomad.
The highlight of Chino Beach is the water. It is pristine, calm, and clear. Out in the bay is a reef which breaks most of the waves, making Chino Beach some of the calmest ocean waters you can experience all down the coast.
There are basketball courts next to the beach, and car parking, bars and more restaurants in the immediate proximity. There are also a few vendors who walk the beach offering snacks or jewelry for sale. This beach is not suited for relaxing during busy times of the day and year. On a random afternoon, though, there is plenty of space to spread out and rest.
Chino Beach is best for: swimming in calm water; grabbing a snack or a cocktail just feet from the ocean; families with children; SUNSETS.
The most beautiful sunsets I have ever witnessed were on Chino Beach. Like this sunset, for instance, which brought me to tears.
A note of precaution: I was fortunate to stay very close to this part of town, so my walk from Chino Beach was only 4 minutes. This allowed me to watch the sunset and get back home before it was too dark. As a solo female traveler, based on the crime I heard about during my 6-week visit, I would not walk around Puerto Viejo alone at night.
Playa Cocles
Continuing down the coast, you will pass beyond Puerto Viejo town and arrive at Playa Cocles.
This beach is big and bright! The golden sand stretches for a mile down the coast. There is plenty of space to stretch out, even when the beach is busy.
Playa Cocles is THE place to surf, previously called the best beach for surfing on the entire east coast of Costa Rica. There are surf shops on the beach where you can rent a board and/or take a lesson, at any level. And plenty of surfers to watch for inspiration.
Be prepared for a vast stretch of sunny beach with not a lot of tree coverage or shade. If you prefer some shade, plan to bring an umbrella or a big hat.
There are shops, restaurants and cafes along the beach and across the small street. Cocles is a village even smaller than Puerto Viejo. What it lacks in size, though, it makes up for in community and ✨vibes✨. Every shop along the road is warm and inviting. On any given day you might stumble into an open mic, a cacao ceremony, a book club, or a somatic dance session.
Playa Cocles is best for: surfing; sun bathing; warm café community.
Playa Chiquita
Playa Chiquita is a bit farther south from Puerto Viejo – about 25 minutes by tuk-tuk (the local version of a taxi). This beach might be the opposite of the last one, Playa Cocles, in terms of accessibility and crowds.
There is no direct road access to Playa Chiquita, it is only accessible by foot paths. There is no town or village next to this beach, but there is a neighborhood and it is so important to be respectful of the community that lives here. Don’t park in the neighborhood or block road access for locals, and of course remember to carry-in, carry-out.
What you find on the other side of the trails is a pristine beach straight out of a computer background. Spotted with palm trees and flower bushes, this beach has privacy and calm waters. There are tidal pools and coral reefs, so bring a snorkel set to make the most of this beautiful place.
Playa Chiquita is best for: the people who prefer to go off the beaten path; people who want to sit in nature and do not need amenities (bathrooms, food, etc.)
A note about accessibility: this beach is definitely not rolling-person friendly. Unfortunately, none of these beaches listed are. However I visited Playa Chiquita with my friend who has two prosthetic legs, and with a little help and some tall steps she was able to make it down the trail.
The trails are not long, but they are also not smooth. Make the best decision for your own abilities.
Playa Punta Uva & Playa Punta Uva Arrecife
Punta Uva has two beaches in one! There is Playa Punta Uva and Playa Punta Uva Arrecife, which are two distinct beaches separated by a peninsula with a short trail and sightseeing spot.
Playa Punta Uva Arrecife has a reef very close to the shoreline, so you can snorkel from the beach. This also protects from wave breaks, so the water is calm and peaceful for swimming. Although I should note, this peaceful water may be seasonal, and it is known to get rough from September to December.
Plan to see colorful Caribbean fish, and probably some sloths too! You can buy pipa frias (chilled coconut water), fresh tamarind juice, or empanadas from stands along the beach.
Also consider kayaking down the Punta Uva river, which gives you a front-row seat to the wildlife in the area.
Playa Punta Uva is best for: those looking for an adventure, including opportunities for nature walks and kayaking; calm waters for swimming and snorkeling.
Are Puerto Viejo Beaches the Best Beaches in the World?
Honestly, maybe!
No matter what beach you go to, you will find jaw-dropping scenery, local food and attractions nearby (excluding Playa Chiquita), and warm waters. Crowds vary by season and day of the week, but the Costa Rican Caribbean coast offers so many beaches that there are always ways to escape the crowds if you want to.
In a land where the jungle reaches the ocean, wildlife spotting is half the fun of a beach trip. From swimming with colorful fish to scanning the trees for toucans and sloths. And have you ever heard a howler monkey? (It’s terrifying!)
I consider myself so lucky to have spent many lazy afternoons lounging on Playa Negra or floating at Chino Beach. If you are lucky enough to have the chance yourself, don’t hesitate. Dive in – first to booking the trip, and then to the warm, Caribbean sea.
Read my full Puerto Viejo Travel Guide!
